I can only be thankful that I made it there before tourism in Egypt became dangerous.
When I experienced Egypt for myself, I could easily see why so many people are unhappy with the government in question. Last summer, our cruise ship stopped at Port Said (Cairo) and Alexandria. We took the option to stay on land over night because the long drive to the pyramids put a constraining limitation on our visiting time. I'm really grateful that we had the opportunity to stay in Giza because it really gave me a better feel for the place.
Seeing a little bit of Cairo street by street opened my eyes to harsh living conditions and poverty. Even though education is free at all government schools and institutions, around 72% of adults remain illiterate. This may be because families need their kids to work at a young age in order to make ends meet. While we were at one restaurant, a girl around 10 years old was in charge of dispersing toilet paper in the restroom. In exchange, she would receive about a dollar for every few customers. There was no doubt in my mind that the money she earns goes straight to her family.
The view from our hotel balcony |
Some Egyptians reside in the City of the Dead, a cemetery built below the Quitbay Mosque in the Mokattam Hills. People either live there because they want to be close to their dead relatives or demolitions and urbanization forced them out of their previous homes. The City of the Dead became so popular that the government ran electricity and cable through the cemetery. And if people don't live there, odds are their building is unfinished. We noticed that most of the apartment buildings inhabited were unfinished. Our guide informed us that this is a form of tax evasion. Unfinished buildings aren't taxed, allowing people to save the little money they have. Buildings may also remain unfinished because the project ran out of money. Islamic law forbids borrowing money so many building projects are paid for out of pocket. What bewilders me about both circumstances is that corruption isn't just a problem with the government but scattered throughout the society down to the poorest. So then how can the government stay honest when the people they govern can't be trusted?
Unfinished buildings in Cairo |
The differences between the lifestyle of locals and tourists are on polar ends of the world. Obviously tourists would not want to visit Cairo if they stayed in the same unfinished buildings as the locals do. However the stark contrast makes you both appreciate what you have and question why so many people lead a life driven by poverty.
There is no question that people of this country are suppressed. But rioters also need to bare in mind a bigger picture. Tourists won't return or plan trips until the political upset comes to some standstill. Since tourism is Egypt's economy engine (earning $11.6 billion in 2009), it is important that the market doesn't drop for the sake of the country's economy. Currently tourism offices and sights are empty during the most popular time to visit Egypt, leaving more people without a source of income. As the rioting continues, the less appealing Egypt will be for people making travel plans for the summer, which will further hurt the tourism market. It is unfortunate that there are so many problems in this fabulous destination but I think tourists may realize that the hostility in Cairo is only one side of the picture. Sights like the great pyramids in Giza and King Tut's exhibit are too magnificent to go your life without seeing, which is why I believe tourism will bounce back only when it is safe. But tourists planning trips for the summer are forced to take a risk...will Egypt be stable by then? Only time will tell.
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