Trip #1: Stockholm!

For my first trip of the semester, a few friends and I went to the capital of (expensive) Scandinavia!

The view from the royal palace

We left early Friday morning and arrived in the city center just in time for an late lunch/early dinner. Similar to London, Stockholm has a really great variety of restaurants. We saw everything from Italian to Mexican. They are also known to have the best sushi outside of Japan! As a sushi fan, I'm not going to lie...they had some of the best cuts I've ever tasted. But according to the locals, the best place to get Swedish meatballs is Ikea! We never even had to leave the states to get a taste of Sweden.

After dinner, we walked around the main shopping street. I've never seen so many H&M's in my entire life! Seriously, H&M is like their Starbucks...there's one on just about every corner. The first H&M opened up in Stockholm in 1947. Since then, there are almost 2,200 stores in 38 countries. Apart from the 40 thousand H&Ms, there is every other store you could possibly want. But be weary of the sales taxes. Scandinavia (Sweden, Denmark and Norway) has the highest sales tax at 25%. So even though the exchange rate in Sweden may be favorable to Americans, Sweden is definitely not the place to do all of your shopping.

Night life in Stockholm is great...but it comes at a high price. For the two nights we went out, we spent a total of $55 just on cover!! Not going to lie, you're going to have an epic time no matter where you go. But if you're there for longer than 2 nights, I don't recommend paying cover for every night you go out. There's a bunch of bars that are more alternative and don't charge a cover. Be careful though...unlike the states and England, all of the clubs have different age limits. Some clubs are 22+ or 25+, but the two we went to were both 23+ and we got in without a problem. Another interesting fact is that alcohol is taxed ridiculously in Scandinavia. Hard alcohol (or any alcohol above 3.5%) can only be purchased from government stores called Systembolaget at the minimum age of 20. There is a 40% tax on vodka and a 14% tax on wine...just so you get the picture of how much money drinks are. I will say that it makes Stockholm seem like a safer place because most people won't pay that much for alcohol and there aren't a ton of drunk randos wandering the streets.

Jack and I in our first snow fall!

Booze isn't the only expense...just about everything you buy is way more expensive than in the states or in England. I paid $6 for hot chocolate (just because I've never been colder in my life and their chocolate is some of the best I've ever had). But it was completely worth it. It was so cold that it started snowing.  For the first time in my entire life, I saw snow falling from the sky! Not going to lie, it was definitely a momentous occasion for me...I'm not too sure if Jack felt the same... 

Just to let you know: museums are free if you are under 19 (or look younger than 19). After walking around old town, we came across the Nobel Prize Museum. At first, we weren't going to go because we didn't want to spend any money. But then we realized that students 19 and under get in for free. So that was the trick we used at both this museum and the Natural History Museum. The Natural History Museum has some fantastic paintings...Reniors and Rembrants that I've studied in middle school. It was amazing to see these paintings.

I definitely had a great weekend!! Next destination: Paris!!

My Take on Egypt

Like any other country, tourism is a significant part of Egypt's domestic gross. But a rioting nation doesn't exactly sound appealing to most tourists...especially since most countries issued travel warnings advising against visiting Egypt unless it is absolutely mandatory. And even news reports say locals themselves want foreigners to stay out due to the sensitivity of the matter.

I can only be thankful that I made it there before tourism in Egypt became dangerous. 

When I experienced Egypt for myself, I could easily see why so many people are unhappy with the government in question. Last summer, our cruise ship stopped at Port Said (Cairo) and Alexandria. We took the option to stay on land over night because the long drive to the pyramids put a constraining limitation on our visiting time. I'm really grateful that we had the opportunity to stay in Giza because it really gave me a better feel for the place.

Seeing a little bit of Cairo street by street opened my eyes to harsh living conditions and poverty. Even though education is free at all government schools and institutions, around 72% of adults remain illiterate. This may be because families need their kids to work at a young age in order to make ends meet. While we were at one restaurant, a girl around 10 years old was in charge of dispersing toilet paper in the restroom. In exchange, she would receive about a dollar for every few customers. There was no doubt in my mind that the money she earns goes straight to her family.

The view from our hotel balcony

Apart from the pyramids and mummies, I can see why Egypt would be a tourists' dream. Once we entered the perfectly safe and clean resort, we had no reason to leave. Everything you could possibly ever want or need is within the walls of the five-star hotel (that you actually pay the price of a three-star). Swimming pools, gym, spa, restaurants and computers...what more do you want? You don't even have to worry about the water because water is filtered in resorts. But while tourists are in the comfort of their hotel, the majority of locals don't have the same luxuries.

Some Egyptians reside in the City of the Dead, a cemetery built below the Quitbay Mosque in the Mokattam Hills. People either live there because they want to be close to their dead relatives or demolitions and urbanization forced them out of their previous homes. The City of the Dead became so popular that the government ran electricity and cable through the cemetery. And if people don't live there, odds are their building is unfinished. We noticed that most of the apartment buildings inhabited were unfinished. Our guide informed us that this is a form of tax evasion. Unfinished buildings aren't taxed, allowing people to save the little money they have. Buildings may also remain unfinished because the project ran out of money. Islamic law forbids borrowing money so many building projects are paid for out of pocket. What bewilders me about both circumstances is that corruption isn't just a problem with the government but scattered throughout the society down to the poorest. So then how can the government stay honest when the people they govern can't be trusted?

Unfinished buildings in Cairo

The differences between the lifestyle of locals and tourists are on polar ends of the world. Obviously tourists would not want to visit Cairo if they stayed in the same unfinished buildings as the locals do. However the stark contrast makes you both appreciate what you have and question why so many people lead a life driven by poverty.

There is no question that people of this country are suppressed. But rioters also need to bare in mind a bigger picture. Tourists won't return or plan trips until the political upset comes to some standstill. Since tourism is Egypt's economy engine (earning $11.6 billion in 2009), it is important that the market doesn't drop for the sake of the country's economy. Currently tourism offices and sights are empty during the most popular time to visit Egypt, leaving more people without a source of income. As the rioting continues, the less appealing Egypt will be for people making travel plans for the summer, which will further hurt the tourism market. It is unfortunate that there are so many problems in this fabulous destination but I think tourists may realize that the hostility in Cairo is only one side of the picture. Sights like the great pyramids in Giza and King Tut's exhibit are too magnificent to go your life without seeing, which is why I believe tourism will bounce back only when it is safe. But tourists planning trips for the summer are forced to take a risk...will Egypt be stable by then? Only time will tell.

21 YEARS YOUNG.

Watch out, world, because I'm legal in EVERY COUNTRY.

The week of my 21st birthday was as epic as it could get...either in London or in the states. So here's what we did...

After not wanting to wait forever and a day to get into Mahiki, we went to one of our favorites...O'NEILL'S. O'Neill's is a great place to have a fun time for you and your wallet. We've never paid to get in and the drinks are reasonably priced. They also have awesome live cover bands that play everything from Blink 182 to Kings of Leon. When midnight hit I couldn't believe I was finally 21. Turning 21 seems so surreal because it's the supposed to be the ultimate birthday. After all, it is the last age you truly look forward to...after 21 you're just old.

We spent my actual birthday relaxing. I did some laundry and some errands...blah blah blah. For my birthday dinner with the girls, we went to the Eagle. Even though it is right around the corner from our flats and has incredibly great food, we hardly ever eat there. Their menu is written in chalk above the bar and changes every day. When they run out of specials, they erase the item off the menu and carry on with the night. This is the kind of restaurant where you know everything is fresh and cooked while you wait.

For my birthday we went to Roadhouse in Covent Garden. I celebrated with just about every Trojan who was in London. Every Wednesday, cover starts at 10 and happy hour ends at 10:30. Andd...ROCKARAOKE! Most of the people that perform are talented singers. But none of the Trojans have made an appearance yet...


Joe arrived on Thursday and the celebrations continued in Shoreditch. On Friday, Joe took me on a tour of the BBC Television studios for my second birthday surprise!! I've noticed several differences between American news and British news...but in some cases they are very similar. BBC uses ENPS, a program that essentially controls the entire broadcast from writing scripts to sending messages to others in the newsroom or on the other side of the world. But one thing that is interesting is their use of teleprompters. Although the stories are previously written, the anchors have a little bit more flexibility with ad-libing than anchors in the states. I've also found that there's a lot more Q&A's than American stations, even though it's becoming a more popular trend. Also on the tour we saw television sets and an upscale dressing room. Unfortunately we couldn't complete the tour...because we went to see Dirty Dancing the Musical!! (Thanks Mom and Dad for the birthday present!)

I've heard that Dirty Dancing was a great show and it definitely lived up to it's reputation. It wasn't your typical musical...whereas the characters don't just randomly burst into music. The orchestra basically played the soundtrack to the movie, which the stage production of the story was essentially identical to by dialogue and set. The set wasn't typical either...they used projections with props or tables to illustrate the environment. At first, the projections distracted me but I ended up enjoying them. The thing about theater is the actors should make the environment and not vivid sets. Since the actors accepted it, the audience could easily believe it was real. The only thing I didn't like about the projections was the fact that I couldn't always differentiate between the movie and the play. Other than that, the actors were fantastic and the dancing was amazing. I really had no complaints there.

After the show, we went to a Turkish restaurant called Ozer just off of Regent Street. For 15 pounds a person, we got 12 small dishes...kind of like Turkish tapas with lots of hummus and flavor. I literally couldn't move after dinner it was so amazing. And there's nothing like dessert for your birthday after dinner!! Our night ended at Embassy for my friend Shannon's 21st birthday! And the celebrations continued for the rest of the weekend :)

A special shout out to all of those who made an appearance on my birthday video. And THANK YOU to the best boyfriend who put it together :)

Museums: Tate Modern and Victoria and Albert

Tate Modern

     Like all public museums, the Tate Modern is open to everyone free of charge. I recommend going on a cold and rainy day if you want to get out of the flat but don't want to spend money. The museum houses international modern and contemporary art that ranges from Monet and Picasso to Andy Warhol and some VERY interesting exhibits. There are some different pieces that make you question why this is considered art but there truly is something for everyone. My favorite piece was Water-Lilies by Monet and Picasso's sketches that he drew close to the end of his life. Personally, I'm not a big modern art fan because most of the time I don't understand what social problem the artist is commenting on. And for some of these pieces you truly have to think outside of the box, like the painting below.

Brooke, Lexi and I at an exhibit

     After you finish wandering through all of the exhibits, you've probably worked up an appetite. Head to the seventh floor for lunch or dinner with a spectacular view of St. Paul's Cathedral and the Millennium Bridge (or the Harry Potter Bridge for our group). The food is reasonably priced and exceptionally good if looking out at the view isn't enough. Even if you don't get a table right next to the window, the restaurant itself is a sight to see with its modern decor. And if you're not hungry after looking at the exhibits, you can still enjoy the view at the bar, which has mulled wine during the winter months (my favorite!). 

Victoria and Albert Museum
 Located near Harrods, the Victoria and Albert Museum is known as the world's greatest museum of art and design. Almost each culture is represented in its many exhibits including furniture, fashion, sculptures and carpets. It also has exhibits of past British courts, including Henry VII, Elizabeth I and Victoria I. The highlights for me were the courtiers' clothes!! Clothing just isn't the same as it was before...hand-made, eloquently embroidered with pearls and jewels...Oh and the exhibit of old keys and locks! I couldn't imagine carrying around a ring of keys weighing more than five pounds but I guess it had to be done!! Each key is extremely unique. Some had the family's initials embedded in the design of the key itself along with a fancy handle. Unfortunately, Rebecca and I went with only an hour to spare so we had to rush through the museum. But in all honesty that was all we really needed to at least see all the exhibits and read the sections that were most interesting to us, like the one below.

And if you're feeling a bit peckish and want to go for a stroll, head to Harrods for a pastry. Expensive, yes, but soooo delicious!!! Or if you're not feeling the hustle bustle store, take a stroll in Hyde Park. It's not too far and absolutely gorgeous. 
 

LONDON: Tower of London and Camden Markets

The Tower of London

Even though I have already been there...twice...I loved it so much that I had to go again. We got off the tube at London Bridge where you can also find the London Dungeons and Borough Market. This exit allows you to walk across the Tower Bridge and snap some amazing pictures. I felt like this little walk along the Thames gave me a nice introduction to the Tower of London...not like when you get off at Tower Hill and you are immediately at the tower. The price for admission also includes a guided tour with one of the Beefeaters, the guards at the tower. The first two times I went I had the same tour guide and he was just entertaining both times. Our guide today was just as good and told story after story...and that was only a small portion of the history at the Tower of London. It's absolutely incredible that just one building has more history than all of the states combined. And of course we couldn't leave without seeing the crown jewels! All of those diamonds make the Hope diamond look like a joke. We ended our tour with a lunch next to the Thames. Couldn't have been a better day.
 *Just so you know: you can get a two for one ticket deal if you take the National Rail and print out a voucher from Days Out Guide. Might be well worth it, but there are also great student deals. 

Camden Markets

This has to be one of my favorite places so far. Camden is where the artsy/hipster/alternative atmosphere of Venice Beach meet London...minus a few degrees. I was completely surprised since I expected it to be more like Borough Markets with samples of cheeses and olive oil. I was a little off with my assumptions. There's something for everyone. Antiques, trendy clothes (similar to the fashion district), drug paraphernalia, rave clothes, hand-made leather purses...EVERYTHING. And the food stands are absolutely incredible! Shannon and I chose Indian food, but the choice was hard...there were so many and they all smelled so good!! The best choice of the adventure by far was the chocolate covered waffle. And not only was some of the best food, but it was the cheapest food. You'll probably spend less than $10 on food, depending on how hungry you are of course. Camden Markets showed me a completely different side of London that I didn't even know existed.

"You sound like you're from London!"

Greetings from London!

It has been two weeks since arriving in England and I've already started getting accustomed to the English way of life. But there are some differences that have been a little overwhelming...the main difference was their lax attitude about classes. I'm studying abroad with Annenberg at City University in Clerkenwell. When we picked our classes, we were assuming it would be as structured and straight forward as USC registration. Well that wasn't the case at all. First of all, our registration was all on paper and not online. Then when we asked which classes we were supposed to show up to, they said just choose whichever. Unlike USC registration where you sign up for one discussion section and that is the one you are required to go to. All 18 of us were in a complete panic because this system was so chill.

Some new vocabulary:
Rain boots - Wellies (Wellingtons)
Trash can - bin
Dinner - tea

Tube is actually pronounced "Chube" rather than "Toobe"

So far we haven't seen too much. We're just trying to get settled into our apartment and make it more comfortable. But a few sights we've gone to are Harrods, Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, and Trafalgar Square.

Restaurant Review: Little Ethiopia Restaurant

Little Ethiopia Restaurant

Owning a restaurant is hard work. But Tensay Assress has double the work on his plate. He is the head chef and owner of  Little Ethiopia Restaurant. His restaurant isn't just a business but a way for him to share his culture with Americans. 

"Most of them, this is their first time doing this," Assress said. "Also this is the first time people are eating with their fingers. So all of the different experiences. You see people enjoying it, you see people trying to share a different culture. That's what actually helps you keep going in this business."

Ethiopian food focuses on enhancing the spices and bringing out their flavors. Assress relates it to Indian and Mexican food since they use many kinds of curry and focus on sauces. 

"For some Americans, it might be considered a little spicy," Assress warned. "It's probably one of the most expensive foods to prepare compared to Italian food and all other food because so many spices goes into it."

Tensay Assress in his kitchen.

But there is another detail that separates Ethiopian food from Indian and Mexican cuisine - injera, a spongy type of bread that looks like a crepe or tortilla, is used in place of the usual fork and knife. In all Ethiopian dishes, pork won't be found but rather lamb, beef or chicken. However, many customers find the numerous vegetarian options helpful.

His dishes are as authentic as the food his grandparents and parents grew up eating. Assress was born and raised in the capital, Abbis Ababa. He moved to the United States for high school and college. Although his family hired servants to do the cooking, his mother and grandmother taught him and his four sisters how to cook. Ever since, cooking has been one of his favorite past times and when a family friend asked him to take over the business, he couldn't refuse. 

View Little Ethiopia Restaurant in a larger map

Since he took over the restaurant, it has become a gathering place for his family events, where they cook Doro Wot, two chicken legs and a hard boiled egg stewed in a red marinated pepper sauce. Doro Wot is traditionally made for special guests, which makes it an important tradition for his family to continue.  

"This is a place where everybody comes to meet, especially on a Sunday maybe after church and stuff," Assress said.

The Assress family isn't the only ones who come to the restaurant frequently. Friends Charlotte Shmazonian and Damali Brown have made it their weekly tradition to have lunch every Sunday.

"I feel like when you go to a small family restaurant its like them," Shmazonian said. "They're cooking the food the way that they learned how to cook it. It's authentic. It's not a commercialized thing. It's not put on. It is what it is."

Customers enjoying the vegetarian appetizer.

Shmazonian said that Brown introduced her to the restaurant and has been coming back ever since. Both said they enjoy the good service and consistently good food. 

Another customer, Schantelle Cason, also enjoys the environment of the restaurant so much that she comes at least once a month. Cason used to work for an Ethiopian restaurant in New Jersey during her grad school years and eating Ethiopian food makes her reminiscent of her past. Her personal favorites are the vegetarian platters. 

"It's like eating Southern food, you know. Or anyone else's home cooking, you know," Cason said. "Like it varies from mother to mother but it's all the same."

Apart from the traditional food, customers will be emerged in traditional Ethiopian music and pictures of Ethiopia decorating the walls.  While exposing Americans to Ethiopian culture, Assress tries to make a difference back at his home in Ethiopia through fundraising for building schools, creating water wells and planting trees. He even helps the United States by fundraising for cancer and AIDS patients.

 "We're out here to better ourselves and to hopefully do something good for this country or the country back home," Assress said. "So any kind of studies that help benefit the whole world, I want to be a part of. So that's just a way of giving back."